“Whooohooooo” The sounds of stoke, as she paddles, place some weight on her knee, and manages to stand on her board for 2 seconds!
Standing to the side, icy waves breaking at my waist, hands resting on an 8 foot board, I watch in awe, as the blurry blue figures on the backline, catch wave after wave.
Time to get my surf on! Inching deeper, a 2 foot wave in the line-up, I turn my board around, stomach to board, I look behind me and get ready for the wave…1, 2, 3, I push myself up on my hands…SPLASH! No balance, there goes my board, while I reach up from the from the ocean floor!
Okay, again, I wait, I balance, I fall! Again, and again, and again…
My left arm starts aching, I lay flat on my board, a lull in the break, I rest my head on my arms, close my eyes…WHOOSH! SPLASH!
There goes my board! I swallow some water, salty, sandy…THAT should teach me! Silly, no sleeping on the wave!
Today, a Moms on Board session, I just needed to feel the calm of the ocean, hear the sound up close, remember to breath and take in the peace, the energy and the beauty.
I left the water feeling relaxed. Today was not about pushing myself to surf. Today was about much needed R & R…
Thank you MOB Squad, see you soon!
Read more about my wetsuit reality here.